{"id":20019,"date":"2019-07-27T12:57:00","date_gmt":"2019-07-27T20:57:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/associatednews.info\/content\/can-fast-fashion-and-sustainability-be-stitched-together\/"},"modified":"2019-07-27T12:57:00","modified_gmt":"2019-07-27T20:57:00","slug":"can-fast-fashion-and-sustainability-be-stitched-together","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/associatednews.info\/content\/can-fast-fashion-and-sustainability-be-stitched-together\/","title":{"rendered":"Can Fast Fashion And Sustainability Be Stitched Together?"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span style=\"font-style:italic;font-size:16px\">By  <a target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.npr.org\/2019\/07\/27\/745418569\/can-fast-fashion-and-sustainability-be-stitched-together?utm_medium=RSS&amp;utm_campaign=business\" rel=\"nofollow&quot; noopener noreferrer\">Emma Bowman<\/a><\/span>  <\/p>\n<div class=\"ftpimagefix\" style=\"float:left\"><a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/www.npr.org\/2019\/07\/27\/745418569\/can-fast-fashion-and-sustainability-be-stitched-together?utm_medium=RSS&amp;utm_campaign=business\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/media.npr.org\/assets\/img\/2019\/07\/26\/gettyimages-665719988_custom-2d46d27f3f7c7a5682f6db6c4dfb641bb2da0aeb-s1100-c15.jpg\" data-original=\"https:\/\/media.npr.org\/assets\/img\/2019\/07\/26\/gettyimages-665719988_custom-2d46d27f3f7c7a5682f6db6c4dfb641bb2da0aeb-s1100.jpg\" alt><\/p>\n<div>\n            <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/media.npr.org\/assets\/img\/2019\/07\/26\/gettyimages-665719988_custom-2d46d27f3f7c7a5682f6db6c4dfb641bb2da0aeb-s1200.jpg\"><\/a><\/div>\n<div>\n<div data-crop-type>\n<div>\n            <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/media.npr.org\/assets\/img\/2019\/07\/26\/gettyimages-665719988_custom-2d46d27f3f7c7a5682f6db6c4dfb641bb2da0aeb-s1200.jpg\">Enlarge this image<\/a>\n        <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div>\n<div>\n<div aria-label=\"Image caption\">\n<p>\n                Zara&#8217;s parent company Inditex announced new sustainability goals this month. But can a fast-fashion brand built on growth truly become sustainable?<\/p>\n<p>                <b aria-label=\"Image credit\"><\/p>\n<p>                    Marcos del Mazo\/LightRocket via Getty Images<\/p>\n<p>                <\/b><br \/>\n                <b><b>hide caption<\/b><\/b>\n            <\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<p>            <b><b>toggle caption<\/b><\/b>\n    <\/div>\n<p>    <span aria-label=\"Image credit\"><\/p>\n<p>        Marcos del Mazo\/LightRocket via Getty Images<\/p>\n<p>    <\/span>\n<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<p>As a fashion brand, Zara has made a name for itself by democratizing the latest clothing styles for consumers at an affordable price. But the rapid pace of that trend-driven business model, known as &#8220;fast fashion,&#8221; can come at high environmental and social costs.<\/p>\n<p>Last week, Zara&#8217;s parent company, Inditex, <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/www.inditex.com\/en\/article?articleId=630055&amp;title=Pablo+Isla+sets+out+Inditex%27s+global+sustainability+commitments\">announced its plans <\/a>to grow more sustainable. <\/p>\n<p>The fast-fashion giant pledged that by 2025, all of its eight brands will only use cotton, linen and polyester that&#8217;s organic, sustainable or recycled, which is 90% of the raw materials its uses. CEO and executive chairman Pablo Isla said that renewable sources will power 80% of the energy consumed by the conglomerate&#8217;s distribution centers, offices and stores. It also plans to transition to zero landfill waste.<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s a significant step for a company that churns out <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/B0A_OdXFJ8Y\/\">500 new designs<\/a> per week, says Elizabeth L. Cline, the author of two books on the impact of fast fashion.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;What they&#8217;re doing is they&#8217;re sourcing materials that do have a better environmental profile,&#8221; she says. &#8220;These are materials that use less water, less energy, less chemicals to produce.&#8221;<\/p>\n<aside aria-label=\"advertisement\">\n<div data-ad-config='{\"network\":\"\/6735\/\",\"site\":{\"default\":\"n6735.NPR\",\"mobile\":\"n6735.NPRMOBILE\"},\"zone\":\"News_Business\",\"targets\":{\"testserver\":\"false\",\"storyId\":\"745418569\",\"program\":\"All_Things_Considered\",\"agg\":[\"693626709\",\"155111283\",\"191676894\",\"434975886\"]},\"location\":\"backstage\",\"deferred\":false,\"isBetweenContent\":true,\"isAggSponsorship\":false,\"borderClass\":\"\"}'><\/div>\n<\/aside>\n<p>Cline says the move sends a powerful message down the supply chain to manufacturers about being more green.<\/p>\n<p>Still, Cline cautions that the announcement should be taken with a grain of salt, arguing that fast fashion and sustainability are inherently incompatible.<\/p>\n<p>Cline says that even if Zara is using materials that are more ethically sourced or have a lower environmental impact, the vast majority of the carbon footprint of fashion comes from the manufacturers who supply brands with their materials. When a business is built on a fast turnover of styles, making those products still swallows a lot of energy, regardless of whether it&#8217;s using organic cotton or selling products in more eco-efficient stores.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;The business model will have to change and evolve for them to operate sustainably,&#8221; she says.<\/p>\n<p>Agriculturally, growing cotton impacts soil health, carbon emissions and water consumption, says Mark Sumner, who lectures on fashion and sustainability at the University of Leeds in England. Polyester, a popular and cheap synthetic material in fast fashion, requires the oil industry&#8217;s extraction and refinement of petroleum, processes known to fuel climate change. Then there&#8217;s the energy-intensive processes of converting that raw material into wearable garments. Dying the fabric can also introduce harmful chemicals.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;When we add up all of those different impacts we then start to get to see a picture of those environmental issues associated with clothing,&#8221; he says.<\/p>\n<p><!-- END ID=\"RES745640125\" CLASS=\"BUCKETWRAP INTERNALLINK INSETTWOCOLUMN INSET2COL \" --><\/p>\n<p><!-- END ID=\"RES745640686\" CLASS=\"BUCKETWRAP INTERNALLINK INSETTWOCOLUMN INSET2COL \" --><\/p>\n<p>What complicates things even more, says Sumner, is that depending on who you ask, the definition of sustainability can vary.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;The fashion industry isn&#8217;t actually just one industry, it&#8217;s a whole raft of other industries that are used and exploited to deliver the garments that we&#8217;re wearing now,&#8221; he says in an interview with NPR&#8217;s <em>All Things Considered<\/em>. <\/p>\n<p>Which is why Cline thinks any excitement over Inditex&#8217;s announcement needs to be tempered.  <\/p>\n<p>&#8220;They&#8217;re acting overly confident about a subject that we&#8217;re still figuring out,&#8221; she says. &#8220;We are still gathering data. We are still figuring out best practices. So for Zara to kind of come out of the gate and say we&#8217;re going to be sustainable by 2025 belies the long road ahead of us that we have on sustainability and fashion.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Inditex is committing <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/www.inditex.com\/documents\/10279\/249245\/Dossier_JGA_2019_EN.pdf\/1664de2f-ca77-3a40-2b78-cace74c06c82\">$3.5 million<\/a> to researching textile recycling technology under a partnership with the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, an investment Cline supports. <\/p>\n<p>At the same time, Cline says it can&#8217;t be up to the fast-fashion industry alone. Consumers and government regulators have a role to play too. <\/p>\n<p>Inditex&#8217;s announcement is a response to consumer pressure, Cline says. &#8220;We&#8217;re in the midst of a consumer-led revolution in fashion sustainability.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Unfortunately, she says, a big part of that movement is tilted toward greenwashing \u2014 a term that refers to a deceptive marketing ploy in which companies spend more effort on its eco-consciousness image than actually being eco-conscious.<\/p>\n<p>The fact that Zara&#8217;s parent company has gone public with its sustainability targets is a good sign, Sumner says.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;Over time, they&#8217;ll be held accountable by their shareholders, by NGOs, by media by commentators,&#8221; he says. &#8220;Hopefully, what they will do is also encourage other brands and retailers to be bold and to make these statements as well.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p><em>NPR&#8217;s Leena Sanzgiri and Tinbete Ermyas produced and edited the audio of this story.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><strong><a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/blockads.fivefilters.org\/\">Let&#8217;s block ads!<\/a><\/strong> <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/blockads.fivefilters.org\/acceptable.html\">(Why?)<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Source:: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.npr.org\/2019\/07\/27\/745418569\/can-fast-fashion-and-sustainability-be-stitched-together?utm_medium=RSS&amp;utm_campaign=business\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Can Fast Fashion And Sustainability Be Stitched Together?\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\">https:\/\/www.npr.org\/2019\/07\/27\/745418569\/can-fast-fashion-and-sustainability-be-stitched-together?utm_medium=RSS&amp;utm_campaign=business<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<div class=\"ftpimagefix\" style=\"float:left\"><a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/www.npr.org\/2019\/07\/27\/745418569\/can-fast-fashion-and-sustainability-be-stitched-together?utm_medium=RSS&amp;utm_campaign=business\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/media.npr.org\/assets\/img\/2019\/07\/26\/gettyimages-665719988_custom-2d46d27f3f7c7a5682f6db6c4dfb641bb2da0aeb-s1100-c15.jpg\" data-original=\"https:\/\/media.npr.org\/assets\/img\/2019\/07\/26\/gettyimages-665719988_custom-2d46d27f3f7c7a5682f6db6c4dfb641bb2da0aeb-s1100.jpg\" alt><\/p>\n<div>\n            <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/media.npr.org\/assets\/img\/2019\/07\/26\/gettyimages-665719988_custom-2d46d27f3f7c7a5682f6db6c4dfb641bb2da0aeb-s1200.jpg\"><\/a><\/div>\n<div>\n<div data-crop-type>\n<div>\n            <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/media.npr.org\/assets\/img\/2019\/07\/26\/gettyimages-665719988_custom-2d46d27f3f7c7a5682f6db6c4dfb641bb2da0aeb-s1200.jpg\">Enlarge this image<\/a>\n        <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div>\n<div>\n<div aria-label=\"Image caption\">\n<p>\n                Zara&#8217;s parent company Inditex announced new sustainability goals this month. But can a fast-fashion brand built on growth truly become sustainable?<\/p>\n<p>                <b aria-label=\"Image credit\"><\/p>\n<p>                    Marcos del Mazo\/LightRocket via Getty Images<\/p>\n<p>                <\/b><br \/>\n                <b><b>hide caption<\/b><\/b>\n            <\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<p>            <b><b>toggle caption<\/b><\/b>\n    <\/div>\n<p>    <span aria-label=\"Image credit\"><\/p>\n<p>        Marcos del Mazo\/LightRocket via Getty Images<\/p>\n<p>    <\/span>\n<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<p>As a fashion brand, Zara has made a name for itself by democratizing the latest clothing styles for consumers at an affordable price. But the rapid pace of that trend-driven business model, known as &#8220;fast fashion,&#8221; can come at high environmental and social costs.<\/p>\n<p>Last week, Zara&#8217;s parent company, Inditex, <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/www.inditex.com\/en\/article?articleId=630055&amp;title=Pablo+Isla+sets+out+Inditex%27s+global+sustainability+commitments\">announced its plans <\/a>to grow more sustainable. <\/p>\n<p>The fast-fashion giant pledged that by 2025, all of its eight brands will only use cotton, linen and polyester that&#8217;s organic, sustainable or recycled, which is 90% of the raw materials its uses. CEO and executive chairman Pablo Isla said that renewable sources will power 80% of the energy consumed by the conglomerate&#8217;s distribution centers, offices and stores. It also plans to transition to zero landfill waste.<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s a significant step for a company that churns out <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/B0A_OdXFJ8Y\/\">500 new designs<\/a> per week, says Elizabeth L. Cline, the author of two books on the impact of fast fashion.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;What they&#8217;re doing is they&#8217;re sourcing materials that do have a better environmental profile,&#8221; she says. &#8220;These are materials that use less water, less energy, less chemicals to produce.&#8221;<\/p>\n<aside aria-label=\"advertisement\">\n<div data-ad-config='{\"network\":\"\/6735\/\",\"site\":{\"default\":\"n6735.NPR\",\"mobile\":\"n6735.NPRMOBILE\"},\"zone\":\"News_Business\",\"targets\":{\"testserver\":\"false\",\"storyId\":\"745418569\",\"program\":\"All_Things_Considered\",\"agg\":[\"693626709\",\"155111283\",\"191676894\",\"434975886\"]},\"location\":\"backstage\",\"deferred\":false,\"isBetweenContent\":true,\"isAggSponsorship\":false,\"borderClass\":\"\"}'><\/div>\n<\/aside>\n<p>Cline says the move sends a powerful message down the supply chain to manufacturers about being more green.<\/p>\n<p>Still, Cline cautions that the announcement should be taken with a grain of salt, arguing that fast fashion and sustainability are inherently incompatible.<\/p>\n<p>Cline says that even if Zara is using materials that are more ethically sourced or have a lower environmental impact, the vast majority of the carbon footprint of fashion comes from the manufacturers who supply brands with their materials. When a business is built on a fast turnover of styles, making those products still swallows a lot of energy, regardless of whether it&#8217;s using organic cotton or selling products in more eco-efficient stores.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;The business model will have to change and evolve for them to operate sustainably,&#8221; she says.<\/p>\n<p>Agriculturally, growing cotton impacts soil health, carbon emissions and water consumption, says Mark Sumner, who lectures on fashion and sustainability at the University of Leeds in England. Polyester, a popular and cheap synthetic material in fast fashion, requires the oil industry&#8217;s extraction and refinement of petroleum, processes known to fuel climate change. Then there&#8217;s the energy-intensive processes of converting that raw material into wearable garments. Dying the fabric can also introduce harmful chemicals.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;When we add up all of those different impacts we then start to get to see a picture of those environmental issues associated with clothing,&#8221; he says.<\/p>\n<p><!-- END ID=\"RES745640125\" CLASS=\"BUCKETWRAP INTERNALLINK INSETTWOCOLUMN INSET2COL \" --><\/p>\n<p><!-- END ID=\"RES745640686\" CLASS=\"BUCKETWRAP INTERNALLINK INSETTWOCOLUMN INSET2COL \" --><\/p>\n<p>What complicates things even more, says Sumner, is that depending on who you ask, the definition of sustainability can vary.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;The fashion industry isn&#8217;t actually just one industry, it&#8217;s a whole raft of other industries that are used and exploited to deliver the garments that we&#8217;re wearing now,&#8221; he says in an interview with NPR&#8217;s <em>All Things Considered<\/em>. <\/p>\n<p>Which is why Cline thinks any excitement over Inditex&#8217;s announcement needs to be tempered.  <\/p>\n<p>&#8220;They&#8217;re acting overly confident about a subject that we&#8217;re still figuring out,&#8221; she says. &#8220;We are still gathering data. We are still figuring out best practices. So for Zara to kind of come out of the gate and say we&#8217;re going to be sustainable by 2025 belies the long road ahead of us that we have on sustainability and fashion.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Inditex is committing <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/www.inditex.com\/documents\/10279\/249245\/Dossier_JGA_2019_EN.pdf\/1664de2f-ca77-3a40-2b78-cace74c06c82\">$3.5 million<\/a> to researching textile recycling technology under a partnership with the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, an investment Cline supports. <\/p>\n<p>At the same time, Cline says it can&#8217;t be up to the fast-fashion industry alone. Consumers and government regulators have a role to play too. <\/p>\n<p>Inditex&#8217;s announcement is a response to consumer pressure, Cline says. &#8220;We&#8217;re in the midst of a consumer-led revolution in fashion sustainability.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Unfortunately, she says, a big part of that movement is tilted toward greenwashing \u2014 a term that refers to a deceptive marketing ploy in which companies spend more effort on its eco-consciousness image than actually being eco-conscious.<\/p>\n<p>The fact that Zara&#8217;s parent company has gone public with its sustainability targets is a good sign, Sumner says.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;Over time, they&#8217;ll be held accountable by their shareholders, by NGOs, by media by commentators,&#8221; he says. &#8220;Hopefully, what they will do is also encourage other brands and retailers to be bold and to make these statements as well.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p><em>NPR&#8217;s Leena Sanzgiri and Tinbete Ermyas produced and edited the audio of this story.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><strong><a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/blockads.fivefilters.org\/\">Let&#8217;s block ads!<\/a><\/strong> <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/blockads.fivefilters.org\/acceptable.html\">(Why?)<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[19],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-20019","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-business-2"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/associatednews.info\/content\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/20019","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/associatednews.info\/content\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/associatednews.info\/content\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/associatednews.info\/content\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/associatednews.info\/content\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=20019"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/associatednews.info\/content\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/20019\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/associatednews.info\/content\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=20019"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/associatednews.info\/content\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=20019"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/associatednews.info\/content\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=20019"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}